No matter how fun and joyful it may be to assemble your e-bike, a high-quality result inevitably requires preliminary planning.
It is not only the cost of the components that needs to be assessed, but also the ability to procure the necessary tools.
In this article I will try to list everything that is needed and warn about possible pitfalls.
First of all, of course, you need the donor bike itself, that is, the one on the basis of which the electric bike will be built. Someone already has it, someone does not, but someone simply feels sorry for or does not want to turn their favorite bike into an electric version, and a separate bike is purchased for this purpose.
There are several important factors that determine the possibility of electrifying a bicycle:
Or, in other words, an electric bike kit. If we make a corresponding request on Aliexpress, we will see a lot of offers — from motor-wheels to central motors, different in power.
So what is included in the electrification kit? Let’s take a look at each of its constituent components.
In the picture above, the battery is missing, since it is often simply not included in the kit — also because it is
So, we have several options for where to get the battery:
Buy ready-made, on the same Aliexpress, or purchase from local entrepreneurs, if you don’t want to wait long. But how can you be sure of the quality of the battery? Here we can only be guided by the reviews of similar buyers from the selected seller.
Buy used. This option is only suitable if you or your friends have equipment for measuring the characteristics of the battery, namely, a wattmeter to measure the capacity and a powerful consumer (for example, a set of lamps) to determine the internal resistance of the battery by assessing the voltage drop under load.
Of course, make it yourself. This will require:
You can read more about the battery in
To install it you will need:
You can try to spoke the motor into the rim yourself, but this option is not suitable for a beginner — you need certain skills and experience.
Motor wheels are classified into the following main types:
In order to prevent the motor axis under load from turning inside the dropouts and damage the wire, the so-called
I already talked in more detail about motors for electric bicycles in
In the case of a central motor, the controller is most often built into the body of the engine itself, and only the power wire, an integration cable to the steering wheel (more about it) and sometimes a wire to the speed sensor come out of it.
In the case of a wheel motor, the controller is usually a separate component. Often the controller comes with a case in which, in addition to the controller itself, the connectors are laid. But I do not advise you to close a powerful controller in a sealed case — it needs more cooling.
Lots of wires at the exit might scare a beginner, but it’s really not that complicated. And in future articles I will tell you in detail about all these wires.
The display, throttle grip and brake sensors (together with the brake levers) mounted on the steering wheel are included in the electrical kit. To install them, you will need a standard set — screwdrivers and hexagons. And of course, each of the components can be purchased separately.
Deserves special attention
It is not included in the kit with a central motor — it is simply not needed, since it is already present inside the engine.
But in the case of a motor-wheel, it is, and to install it, we first need a connecting rod puller, and then a key to unscrew the carriage.
But the PAS system does not only consist of a sensor — it comes with a plastic
In this place, a problem often arises — the ring with magnets does not fit under the star. Sometimes grinding the ring, cutting holes for interfering elements, or even installing the ring and sensor on the other side of the carriage helps. And in some cases, people completely abandon the PAS — after all, the throttle stick works independently of it.
But PAS helps quite a lot
The set with the central motor usually comes with a so-called integration cable — on the one hand, it is connected to the engine, on the other, to the controls and sensors on the steering wheel (display, throttle stick, brake sensors).
The huge advantage of such a cable is not even that it makes the wiring less noticeable — it uses waterproof Julet connectors. And this tightness is extremely important for the Russian conditions.
But there is usually no such cable in the kit with the wheel motor, so a separate wire will go from the controller to each component: 4 wires for the steering wheel, as well as a power wire for the battery and a wire for the PAS sensor.
In future articles, I will definitely show you how to apply the integration cable to the wheel motor kit, including soldering the return wires to the controller, display, throttle stick and brake sensors, so stay connected.
The quality of the finished electric bike is responsible not only for the reliability of its individual components, but also for the reliability of their fastening.
The most common mounting method is as follows. The battery, if not too heavy, is attached to the bottle mount of the downtube, the controller case mounts to the bottle mount of the seat tube.
Some people prefer to mount the battery to the trunk, but I would not recommend doing so — the center of mass shifts a lot back, especially when there is a motor-wheel behind.
The ideal option, in my opinion, is to mount the battery platform on monolithic polycarbonate clamps, made in the shape of the frame, so they do the same
That’s all for now, Thank you for reading the article to the end! If you liked it, do not forget to subscribe, there are many interesting things ahead!
The article uses materials from the site aliexpress.com.