In the motor that we will be disassembling today, the standard cable has already been replaced with a YLS cable.
I will try to show the whole process in detail. The article should be useful to those who are planning to replace the cable in the same or a similar direct drive motor, but have little idea of how to do it.
Replacing the cable was required due to the fact that the engine is not used on an electric scooter, but on an all-terrain vehicle that consumes more power, and the cable overheats.
Let’s replace it with another one made by Julet, the cross-section of the power wires of which is larger. Accordingly, the cable will heat up less.
To begin with, we securely clamp the engine by the axle in a vice with the cable down and unscrew the 8 screws in the engine cover with a hexagon.
The cover is unscrewed, but it will not be possible to remove it, since it is immersed inside the case, so we turn the engine over and we will remove the case itself from the engine.
We install the puller, which rests on the engine axis, and by rotating the pin we pull together and remove the case.
We remove the engine housing to the side, but it is better to wrap it with stretch film so that no debris gets inside and unnecessary metal elements do not adhere to the magnets.
Now you need to remove the cover that we unscrewed at the very beginning. We turn the engine over and use the same puller to pull off the engine cover.
We move from the locksmith’s workbench to the workplace with a soldering iron. We memorize the location of the wires (I usually take pictures with my phone) in order to restore the sequence when unsoldering a new wire.
The signal wires are filled with epoxy resin, and in order to make it easier to remove, we heat the resin with a technical hair dryer — the resin will become softer. I usually do this with a wooden stick, which will not damage the board and the conductors on it.
We unsolder the wires and clean the board from resin residues.
We turn over the engine. On this side are the power wires.
We bite off the nylon clamps and tighten the glass-reinforced tubes. We also take pictures so as not to confuse the sequence in the future.
We unsolder the wires, remove the black sealant (at the cable entry into the axle) and pull the wire out of the motor axis. At this point, we are ready to pull the new wire.
Next, we remove the cable insulation by 11 cm, shorten the power wires by 2 cm. We put on glass-reinforced tubes.
Let’s start with the blue wire. We clean it and solder it to the copper conductors of the motor windings, put on a heat-shrinkable tube on top.
We repeat the procedure for the yellow and green wires, while not forgetting which wire goes where.
We turn the engine over, clean and tin the signal wires. We bend the two extra wires (gray and lilac) and shrink them — they are not needed now, but theoretically they may come in handy someday.
We solder the wires to the board and rinse it from the remains of the flux. Solder the white wire back to the NTC10K temperature sensor hidden under the board. By the way, it was not included in the standard configuration, as well as the white wire in the cable, but I installed the sensor during the last cable change so that I could monitor the engine temperature.
We dilute a 2-component epoxy resin.
Turn over and apply sealant at the point where the wire enters the engine axis. It will not only provide a seal, but also protect against accidental pulling out.
This completes the work inside the engine, we assemble it into the housing in the reverse order.
The photo is not very visible, but the cross-section of the contacts of the new red Julet connector exceeds the cross-section of the YLS connector.
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